Odds, Ends, and Everyday Life (a comeback after a 5 month blog-dry-spell)

Well it's no secret I got way, WAY behind on my blogging. I did so well (most of the time) keeping up with it in Germany, and I don't really know why I dropped the ball with it this year. So you haven't heard from me since the Gaza conflict back in November.

Let me give you a short history about my blog and how it has changed over time. When I first got to Germany I was planning to blog every day, because every day was something new and exciting and different. They were short, sweet and to the point. It didn't take too long for me to get used to those little things such as, going to church, walking down the street or going grocery shopping, which quickly became no longer blog worthy. After that I only blogged about day/weekend trips and radically different things, like random Karnival celebrations in Cologne, or the 2012 Pilgrimage of Trier, and they were LONG and full of pictures.

By the time this year came around life abroad had become so normal to me. Don't get me wrong, the Middle East IS extremely different than Europe, and I did have to get used to some things that were brand new. But the process of adjusting was the same as in Germany.....if that makes sense at all. These adjustments, though they were new, almost felt routine. So thinking to blog about them was never my first thought. On occasion, long after the fact, I'd think to myself, "oh yeah I should journal that in my blog" and then it didn't take long for my mind to wander to something else.

CHAPTER 1-Our Neighborhood

I'll start with the basics. Our apartment. I did blog about the apartment, but I should tell you a bit about the neighborhood. Nachlaot. It is a cluster of small neighborhoods with narrow winding (often only foot traffic) streets with small hidden courtyards, and synagogues. It's one of the oldest neighborhoods built outside the city walls in the late 1870s (according to wikipedia). It's very unique and you'll find a very eclectic group of people living here from Jews to Christians to non religious people, rich, poor, and just plain odd people.

It's in a great location, it's within walking distance of the city center, the old city, the southern neighborhoods, the tram and most main bus routes. The shuk, Jerusalem's outdoor market, is about a 5 minute walk away for us in Mahane Yehuda, right next to Nachlaot. The shuk is like a permanent farmers market on crack with many restaurants, cafes and hodge-podge stores throughout. This is where you can buy the cheapest and best produce. And of course, anything else you can think of. This is where I do our grocery shopping--between here and a large grocery store in the city center. The shuk, as amazing as it is, can be extremely exhausting, especially if you have to go during the holidays (which inevitably you will). Not only are all the locals trying to stock up, but usually many tourists come during the holidays and they like to pack the place out as well.

Nachlaot (as seen from the Rose Garden)

Our apartment building from Bezalel Street, the tall one. The slant at the top is our balcony.

Neighborhood street

Mitspe Street--our street! 

Us at our front gate

CHAPTER 2-The Shuk and Shopping Culture

When we first moved into the apartment and went to the shuk, it was absolutely crazy, because it was the holidays. I didn't realize it a the time so I just found it stressful and absolutely horrible that I had to go there a couple times a week. Luckily on my way home from one of my trips there, I ran into one of our apartment agents who told me to try to avoid going on holidays and Fridays (before everything shuts down for Shabbat).

Eventually the crowds lessoned and Katherine (my good friend from Madison who is also here this year and lives in Nachlaot as well) and I established some regular vendors who started recognizing us. That was great because they were always nice to us, always greeted us and helped us with any questions we may have had. We even practiced our Hebrew with a few of them. One of them gave me a free pepper every time. They all call me "gin-gin", which just means red head in Hebrew. I suppose I ought to mention our butcher since I tell all the ladies I know to go to him. He's rather attractive, speaks great English and is super nice and helpful. He's very tall for an Israeli.

I have had some fun times in the shuk and some nightmares. One was for Thanksgiving when the hot butcher was closed and we had to get our thanksgiving roast from a different guy. I had bought normal chuck roast from him before at a reasonable price, but this time I guess he decided to screw me over. He lied to us and then jacked up the price of the meat, and long story short I left in tears and Katherine's mom generously sponsored the overpriced meat he sold us. It tasted good at least. A few days later I mentioned it to the hot butcher, and he said that guy was known for screwing people over.

Another time, and I shared this on facebook recently, my cart fell over and a jar of salsa fell out and shattered everywhere. People saw and basically stepped over me, but one guy from behind the counter came out and helped me. He wiped off all the salsa covered things, then carried my cart to the doorway and offered me their sink to wash my hands. He's one of the nicest Israelis I have ever encountered! They tend to be a bit cold and angry normally.

There have been many other shopping adventures as well. Jerusalem of course has the normal department stores and little boutiques around the city center, but it also has many many small local shops where the price is up for discussion. Yes, bartering, and I'm usually pretty good at it. There is especially a lot of bartering in the old city, and I mentioned this in detail in one of my old city blogs when our friend Tricia was visiting. The key is to walk away, and to be ok with walking away. So basically, if you're in desperate need of something immediately, your chances aren't as good. You need a fair price in mind, but you have to shoot way lower than that in order to reach the fair price. Think about it too hard, and it all seems really stupid and pointless. Which it sort of is. Unless you're the vendor and you can sucker some rich tourist into paying triple what something is worth. Most of the time I try to avoid bartering for things, but we have to on occasion.

All of these amazing shuk pictures were taken and touched up by Tricia when she was visiting us in October.

Israeli Shekels (too bad this is all for rent...)

CHAPTER 3-What are you doing in Jerusalem?

That's the question of the year, every time I meet someone new. My answer, "Well, my husband is here on a fellowship writing his dissertation, and I'm just along for the ride." The first few months we were here, I filled my time with Hebrew class. Katherine was taking Hebrew also, but she was in a different class. But it was ok because our classes met at the same time and were basically at the same pace so we could study together and ride the bus together. Hebrew class is another reason I didn't blog very much. It was 4 hours a day, 3 days a week with a lot of homework in between. It was an intensive immersion course and every day was exhausting. All I could do after class was come home and engage in mindless activities. The other days we filled with shopping and running errands.

My Hebrew class was amazing though. Hebrew is my third immersion course in a row. (I took spanish before I moved to Germany, it was in the states, but the teacher was European and so taught like a European). I really enjoyed my German classes in Cologne, and though I like German better than Hebrew, this class has been by far better than those other classes. I think it's mostly because our teacher, Sarah, was the best teacher ever! She genuinely cared SO much for her students and it was her priority for them to learn Hebrew, even if that meant going to their home across town on Shabbat to tutor them. She was also hilarious and easy to follow (as easy as a language teacher can be). Later on I found out she actually wrote the Hebrew University's Hebrew Ulpan book! No wonder she was so good! Her passion for the language and for teaching people the language showed through every day.

Not only was my teacher amazing, but my classmates as well. Most everyone was equally ambitious which made it easy to learn more, and they were super nice and funny. We had a lot of fun during class. In fact, Skye, Katherine and I still hang out with many of them socially. I just found it very unique that every person got along so well in the class.

It started out rough though. I felt so overwhelmed and so unconfident. It was very difficult and extremely frustrating. But I kept trucking along and eventually things began to click, and Sarah was always willing to help me with any questions I had. I miraculously ended up with an A in the class! I couldn't believe it! Now I can say a few basic things, read a little, and I know a new alphabet and can write backwards!

These first two pictures I credit to Joel, one of my classmates, a priest from Rome who was fantastic at photography. He also sent the group shot to CNN! http://ireport.cnn.com/docs/DOC-914154

My Hebrew class

Our class got together outside of school one last time before a few of them left. Such a fun group!

Sarah Israeli (in the pink), best language teacher ever!

Take a look at my homework assignment, I can write in Hebrew! (pretend you can't see the many mistakes...)

CHAPTER 4- Christian Holidays (or lack thereof) in Jerusalem

My semester of Hebrew went by surprisingly fast. Thanksgiving and Christmas came and went, and those were rather depressing. Well, not completely, we did what we could to make it feel like the holidays.

I had one of my long hard class days on Thanksgiving. No one had work or school off, so it was hard to get into the spirit. We hosted a pretty large Thanksgiving for the size of our apartment. We had 11 people including Skye and myself. I already told you about the meat drama, but besides that it was a fun time and everyone brought delicious food. Our friend, Kai, from Germany made homemade Spätzle, it was quite the project, but it was delicious!

Christmas was difficult. It was a normal workweek here with nothing around to help us get in the spirit. Katherine always throws an annual holiday wine and cheese party and that was a lot of fun. It felt the most Christmasy of anything else we did. Though Skye and I watched at least 3 or 4 Christmas movies a week through all of December and listened to Christmas music all the time, so that was fun also.

On Christmas eve we went to Christ Church in the old city for Christmas carols, then to the Scottish church for their Christmas Eve service, those were both nice. Traditionally my family eats lasagne after the candle light service on Christmas eve, so I made a lasagne (which happens to be a very expensive thing to make in Israel, and the noodles are stupid and stick together then rip apart). A couple of our friends, Maay'an and Dan, were alone because their spouses/significant others were in the states, so they came for dinner.

On Christmas day we also hosted a small laid back Christmas gathering with snacks, games and Christmas movies. But I had homework and class early the next day and everyone worked all day long, then came over. So it just never really felt like Christmas.

New Year's was similar. We went to a small celebration at a bar with some friends. They did a count down and handed everyone little streamers but that was about it. We had fun, but again, it just didn't feel like New Year's.

Thanksgiving

Me, Katherine, Maa'yan at Thanksgiving

Table 1 Thanksgiving crew (from left: Kai, Dan, David, Skye, Veronica)

Table 2 Thanksgiving Crew (from left: Neik, Teranne, Maa'yan, Terry, Katherine)

Full and happy! 

The most important dish.....dessert.....with a rare (and expensive!) gem for J-town--cranberries, not shown in picture is hard sauce, an amazing cold sugary buttery delicious compliment to this dessert! 

Holiday Wine and Cheese! 

Awesome banner by Katherine--Chag Sameach! (Happy Holiday)

Dressed in our wine and cheese best

The ladies! (from left: Martina, Cindi, Mirjam, me, Katherine)

Jerusalem's best and only Christmas decoration, in the Christian quarter of the old city

Christmas Eve at Christ Church

Maa'yan joined us, she had never been to a Christmas Eve service before!

Christmas Eve service at the Scottish church

The poinsettia served as our Christmas tree, and boxes from our family brought a little Christmas cheer!

Happy New Year everyone! (Eszter and me)

Witz wished us a Merry Christmas from the states, nestled in her favorite spot during December-- under the tree blending in and leaving wads of fur on the tree skirt. 

CHAPTER 5-The Next Chapter in J-town

Hebrew class ended at the end of January, and the whole month of February is the break between semesters. The break was nice, we took a trip to Caesarea, I began volunteering at the Science Museum, and I started taking some new gym classes. In early December I had joined an all women's gym about a 7 minute walk away from our apartment, so I have been enjoying that. My favorite class is zumba, and taking the class with some strict Jewish women is quite the experience. Zumba is a class just for fun where you can let loose and enjoy the music. It's fun to see these women "let their hair down" (but they don't actually, many of them keep their head pieces on). Ever see an orthodox Jewish woman shimmy? I have! :)

Snow day in Jerusalem! First one since 1992!

The spring semester began at the very end of February. I decided against continuing with Hebrew. I'm not getting any credit for it, I don't need it for any sort of degree, and I felt it was too much stress. I feel I have enough Hebrew that I can read labels, I can understand the important things, and I can ask basic questions, enough to get around in Jerusalem (also most people speak English). I have no regrets at all having taken it last semester, and I would do it again, it was wonderful. But so far, I also have no regrets of not taking it this semester. Instead I'm taking a class called, "It's Complicated: Partners and Politics in the Bible". It's very good so far. We are reading about many couples in Genesis and we're discussing a lot about the possible details that aren't written in the Bible. For example, how the women may have felt about certain situations or why the couple did the things they did. The Bible doesn't always cover those details and it's very interesting to think of it from other perspectives. Having grown up in church, the Bible is what it is, the moral of the stories are what we focus on in church, not the details of what may have been. To give you a light example, Sarai may have been very angry and hurt that Abram gave her to Pharaoh to save his own skin. She may have felt rejected and bitter. We read (and granted, it was fiction, but it certainly could have been what happened) a lot from Sarai's perspective. So I've been enjoying that. Oddly enough I think it could help us remember to think of other perspectives in modern day, to think about people in other countries and cultures. It helps us to keep an open mind which I think is very important.

CHAPTER 6- Odds, Ends, and Randoms

We've hit a nice routine here in Jerusalem. Skye usually works on his dissertation at the National Library on the Givat Ram campus or at the Mosse office on Mount Scopus. The weekends here are very strange and hard to get used to. The Sabbath, or Shabbat, is Saturday. But technically Shabbat is from Friday at sundown to Saturday at sundown. Things usually begin to close down Friday afternoon and don't open up again until Saturday evening or possibly Sunday morning. And that's their whole weekend. It's only a day and a half. But during that time, EVERYTHING is shut down, unless you go to the Arab neighborhoods. Transportation is one of the things that is shut down so that makes it difficult to do anything social on Friday nights. Especially because a lot of our friends live in the student village on Mount Scopus. Thursday night is usually our Friday night and Sunday is our Monday.

We have been going to an English speaking church called Narkis Street, it's about a 10 or so minute walk from our aparment. The service is held on Saturday mornings and it's cool because they follow along with the readings in the Torah and we say some things in Hebrew. The people there are very nice and we've met a lot of friends there as well. The services are very long and quite laid back. There is a different guest speaker every week, and that has ranged from amazing to creepy and everything in between. But it has still been a great place to go to church. One of the families there, the Pfann's, host a dinner and game night every other week at their house. It's always nice to go there because, not only is the food always extremely delicious, but it's like a real house! It makes us feel like we're in a safe warm homey environment away from stressful Jerusalem for a few hours. Also we get to play Mario Kart on the wii, which I used to kick butt at, I'm not as good as I used to be, but it's still a lot of fun!

Sometimes on the "weekends" we go out with our friends in the city center. But going out here is very expensive, so we don't do it very often. There are some fun bars though, one is in the middle of the shuk sort of hidden from everything else. They always have good drink specials. More often than not, someone is hosting a party or get-together in their home.

It's a similar situation for restaurants. Things are just expensive here, so we don't eat out very often. If we do go out, one of our favorite's is Sima which Terry and Maa'yan first introduced us to it. They have delicious food, Skye took me there for Christmas lunch as well. We have always had great experiences there, but for some reason when we went with Katherine and Raf, they over charged us and had some pretty severe false advertising, so that sucked.

 It's always fun when we find a non kosher restaurant! We miss mixing meat and cheese SO badly! And of course we miss pork. We went to a burger place after church once, it was not only open on Shabbat, but I got CHEDDAR (a rare and expensive find in Jerusalem) on my burger! They also offered bacon! It was expensive, but considering we're in Jerusalem, it wasn't too bad, and I thought it tasted very good. There of course are the stands that sell shwarma and falafel for very cheap. Those are always good. My sister, Chara, and I are pickle freaks. I was so excited when I first got here because there are always pickles! They bring them out on plates, put them in the falafel, pickles galore! But after I ate a few they began tasting extremely fishy. And I don't know enough Hebrew to read the ingredients but I'm quite certain there is some sort of fish ingredient in the recipe. So unfortunately I can't eat the pickles because they taste like fish, which I cannot eat.

We usually eat at home and try to cook a mix of our American favorites like chili or tacos (many different people have mailed us taco seasoning packets, so that's been great) with some typical Israeli things, like pita, hummus, cucumbers, etc. I have been making a lot of tzatziki sauce, using lobnay as my base instead of yogurt. It's delicious! I mentioned that cheddar cheese is hard to come by, it's always expensive and it's not the right texture, it's kind of crumbly. We have been, however, trying many of the various white cheeses available here, and half the time I don't even know what they're called. But they're good!

Jerusalem has a cat problem. A huge cat problem. There are thousands of stray cats running around everywhere. I love cats, but it's a little ridiculous. I would never touch a stray cat, but there were these kittens that lived under a gate just one apartment down from us. Someone fed and watered them all the time and they were all intact. Meaning, they weren't mangy and dirty from cat fighting. There were three of them and a mom. I slowly began to get to know them by making a click sound putting my hand out, and moving slowly around them. One was particularly friendly, he is a sandy orange color with bright orangish eyes. He was so sweet, so everytime I walked by I would click and he came out and let me pet him and followed me to the end of the street. I named him Dwayne. His brother, a white and orange little guy always stared at me petting Dwayne but would never get close enough for me to pet him. I saw Dwayne all the time and he started growing and getting so big. Eventually the brother let me pet him and although he has some issues where he hits (playfully), he is sweet also. So I named him Archie. There was also a sister who is light gray with orange and white spots but she never cared about me. These guys are almost adults now, but they still come every time I click! Now they walk me all the way to my door where I pet them for a few minutes until I go inside. I don't ever feed them because I don't want them to become dependent on me, then what happens then when we move? I have been missing Witz, my cat in the states, a lot and feeling horrible for leaving her for so long. So it's nice to have some little street cat friends. Some non-mangy, non-diseased ones. And don't worry, I ALWAYS wash my hands after I pet them!

Making Israeli style food in our giant toaster oven

Church friends (from left: me, Veronica, Shannon, George, Jon)

Night on the town

from left: Eric, Skye, Flavia, me, David

After one of those wicked house parties, David and I somewhere in the winding streets of Nachlaot

Dinner party and phase 10 with the Pfann's and Kai! (from left: Stephen, Shoshie, me, Michael, Kai)

We couldn't go another year without the annual Katherine/Skye birthday party! 

The Mosse Crew (most of them) (from left: Katherine, me, Skye, Dan, David)

Thankfully in Israel we aren't missing out on the latest pop culture, The Hobbit in 3D! (From left: Skye, Eric, Kai, Dan, David)

Archie and sister

Dwayne! Sweetest little bugger ever! 

CONCLUSION

That should cover the gist of our stay so far here. It was very difficult adjusting to life in Israel. Jerusalem can be a stressful city where a lot of tension is felt because of the problems in Israel. A few months in we realized we needed to actively change our attitudes and make a choice to be happy and take advantage of the opportunity around us. We did just that and we have been much more content since. We have met so many wonderful friends here and have had many great experiences. Bring on the last few months, J-town!